tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33428888972703692312024-02-07T02:40:22.721-08:00a future blueRyan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-34903011747251372372015-11-05T12:37:00.000-08:002015-11-05T18:44:52.337-08:00to have spent sometime wandering I stood at the "boca" of Casco Viejo waiting for my roommate, Ivan. He’s from Puebla, Mexico. We’ve always been friendly, but we've never gone out together. I guess celebrating the independence of Mexico was a big enough deal for Ivan and I to cross that frontier. I stood next to a blonde haired girl with enormous headphones. She smoked her cigarette and listened to her music loudly; I listened to the group of teenagers behind me. One of them was playing the ukulele.<br />
Casco Viejo is the most beautiful part of Bilbao. Unless you include Sopelana. I live almost seven metro stations towards the coast from Casco Viejo. But the concave shape of the city lets me imagine where it is from my apartment's balcony: cobbled streets and architecture that I can't properly describe. All I know is that it's appealing in most senses. Ivan's smiling face showed up near the set of stairs. I went to meet him. He was quickly accompanied by two French girls who were also following us to the party. I didn't pay much attention to them at first: one was sick, and the other one I knew because she taught French in one of the town halls.<br />
Ivan was unsure of where we were going. He talked to someone on the phone briefly, but they didn’t know either. We saw a Mexican flag hanging from a fourth floor balcony and cleverly made our way to the right flat. We ambled up the uneven, wooden staircase to the flat on the third floor. The flat was spacious and filled with loud, friendly people. We stumbled into the living room where most of the people were sitting and talking. We ate chips with guacamole, and poured cans of Amstel into our own plastic cups.<br />
There was a student from Bogota, Columbia. I refer to him as the giant. Not because of his size, but because of his overwhelming personality. It seemed like his constant commentary was meant to overflow into every conversation. I never understood who exactly lived in the flat, but there was a slightly older woman who seemed to mother all of us. She wore a black, long sleeved t-shirt with boyish khaki shorts. She was calm and passive, but I attribute that to the ashtray and cigarette that she always managed to carry in one hand. She made sure we each had a beer.<br />
Rise was a Spanish student. I call him Rise because he kept changing his name as a witty joke. I started calling him Rise because it was one of the words on his t-shirt. He was all over the place. Before I knew it, he was off making some joke in Spanish with one of the other guys. Rise stood on a step ladder and was hanging a streamer on the mantel piece. The giant grabbed some tape and streamers and started wrapping him in it. He fell on his ass and started laughing. He looked around at all of us and awkwardly smiled. He was strange and frantic but we all got along with him.<br />
The French girl that taught at the town-hall became the focal point of the party. She wore a white, summer dress with a watermelon pattern. Her and another girl from somewhere in South America went around the room, putting mascara on everyone's face in the shape of an obscene mustache. My face was too scruffy for the mascara, so they used a pastel crayon with the colors of the Mexican flag. Everyone was laughing about who had the worst mustache.<br />
More food and alcohol was brought into the living room. We sat down on the couches and on the floor to eat. I didn't know what half of the dishes were. I did recognize the baguette dipped in mole sauce. "Es pica?" Asked the girl from Barcelona.<br />
"No, no. No es picante." <br />
Which led to Ivan bringing me his plate of food for me to try. He offered me a small pepper from the corner of his paper plate. He said if I didn't think the mole was pica, that it wouldn't be bad. But it was down right terrible, and I quickly drank beer straight from the can. Nobody laughed at me; they were just happy that I was trying the food. Most of the people from South American stood around a laptop quickly changing between different traditional Mexican songs. They would passionately sing half of the song, before someone else would change it to something they liked more. Nobody cared and everyone sang.<br />
There was an Italian girl who was in the same Spanish class as me. She spoke more fluently than I did. She bounced around and danced to unfamiliar songs. Her black glasses were shaped like perfect circles. She was the best dancer I’ve ever seen. She spoke a lot, and I liked to listen to her Italian accent. Everybody asked everyone else where they were from. I don't even remember how many countries I heard, but I know that practically everyone was from somewhere else.<br />
It was also the French girl’s birthday. She quickly took center stage, as everyone sang and presented her a frozen, chocolate cake. Everyone grew quiet as she removed the plastic lid. Then she ferociously took a huge bite and several hands pushed her face into the cake. The room burst into sugar and laughter. Her face was smeared with ice cream and chocolate. She jumped up and kissed one of the shorter guys on the cheek. He let out a cry and everyone started laughing even louder. Some people began taking small pieces of the cake and smearing it on each other. Eventually the 'mother' of our group put down her ashtray and began handing out slices of cake. It was delicious and was followed by sangria.<br />
We got real loud as the night moved on. An older woman, who lived in the same flat, walked through the party with her yoga mat. Everyone got quiet out of respect until she went into her room. Then it got even louder than before and I swear nobody could understand anything. Eventually the shorter guy, with chocolate smeared on his face, herded us down a dark hallway into a small bedroom. Over a dozen of us sprawled out across the two beds and the floor. We continued to play our game of charades until we became too obnoxious to stay in the flat.<br />
We all stood outside waiting for someone to volunteer their apartment. Someone eventually complied that we could keep the party going at their flat, as long as their Irish roommate didn't mind. Their apartment was next to a restaurant in one of the older plazas. His Irish roommate, who was covered in intricate tattoos, didn't seem to mind our presence. He was studying intensely, and he never said anything to us. We were too into the moment to decipher whether or not he was angry with us. Maybe he'll blame us if he gets a bad grade tomorrow. He could've said something. But I wouldn't have said anything either.<br />
There was a piece of artwork hanging above the living room TV. It was a painting of a naked girl being chased away from a lake by a goose. The hallway had several hanging photos of what Bilbao looked like a long time ago. The flat had a small balcony where a few of us sat and looked at the plaza from the second floor. I fell in and out of conversations. There was now a new person in our group: he was from northern France. He tried to speak English with me, but I didn’t really want to. So we spoke broken Spanish with each other instead. He eventually faded into a conversation with the watermelon girl and someone else that I didn't know.<br />
I started telling the Giant about all of my plans. Which isn't always a good decision. If I talk about my plans, my mind sort of sky rockets. My voice gets louder; I stop looking into people's eyes for confirmation; I go wild. But he stayed right with me. It interested him a lot. "No, no. It's not "Quiero muchas planes" it's "Tengo muchas planes. OK? Quiero isn't certain. You're certain, right? Use tengo."<br />
“Tengo muchas planes,” I said with affirmation.<br />
I stood in the marmalade of worldly laughter, doubting whether or not sleep could exist after all. Anything could rile up anyone of us right then. It wasn’t until after 4am that we strolled out onto the streets. Our group grew smaller and smaller, as we walked further down the river towards the coast. Eventually it was just Ivan and I. So we carelessly made our way back to our apartment on Calle Txakoli.<br />
Everything made out okay that night. I went into the bathroom and washed the chocolate cake off my face. I stayed up for a few more hours sitting on the balcony. I sat there thinking about the acre’s worth of things I’d yet to go through. How many nights to come I’d spend just like this. How lucky I was to have lived so unreasonably-- to have grown tired from throwing cake—from really spending sometime wandering. The sun came up, and I decided to get some sleep.<br />
We were a real celebration tonight. I think it might just go on forever.Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0Bilbao, Vizcaya, España43.2630126 -2.934985200000028343.2167606 -3.0156662000000285 43.309264600000006 -2.854304200000028tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-64644481650562298852015-11-02T15:54:00.003-08:002015-11-02T16:06:38.222-08:00yellowstone, roll no. 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>"Charged aesthetic enjoyment of the moment." -Lindholm</i></div>
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I've yet to think of anything else I can say to describe it. The real texture of what I've been through lately. The world has been so sweet to me.</div>
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<br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0Parque Nacional Yellowstone, Wyoming 82190, EE. UU.44.427963 -110.5884550000000119.091302499999998 -151.897049 69.7646235 -69.279861000000011tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-84798570181041622932015-10-29T12:17:00.001-07:002015-10-29T12:23:24.680-07:00yellowstone, roll no. 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It took two weeks to get back my rolls of film from being developed. They were almost ruined by the rain in the shipment process. This is the second roll of film. I'm still waiting to get the other half of my photos, which are somewhere on the west coast. I'm excited to see how the rest of them turned out. </div>
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Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0Parque Nacional Yellowstone, Wyoming 82190, EE. UU.44.427963 -110.5884550000000119.091299999999997 -151.897049 69.764625999999993 -69.279861000000011tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-3486190695396732262015-10-19T19:38:00.000-07:002015-10-19T20:02:06.511-07:00yellowstone<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A few friends and I took a trip to Yellowstone National Park during our fall break. These are photos taken by Aubrey & I (on our phones). I'm still waiting to get a couple rolls of film developed. Hopefully I'll have time this week to write something about our trip. I had such a wonderful time. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bAC-fqk3B11OK5jmx0lQRoNJTKW9MyAtCVQBkRNads8xHin9Z58UoeJ9RmyQwMWqFz8HiZTEpXPDqJyMPwq9e-1rqwepfhI4DR5TU_vLbgIYnX_Jw9rmyfiGOqgFgNrEkbPcqcXTAG85/s1600/0BD2FF37-487F-4119-B78A-4EAA029C4F8A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190, EE. UU.44.4279684 -110.588454219.091300399999998 -151.8970482 69.7646364 -69.2798602tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-91470082530746079152015-08-25T16:49:00.001-07:002015-10-14T18:13:20.610-07:00summer photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-92011525893667054582015-05-31T19:39:00.001-07:002015-05-31T19:48:24.095-07:00afga, spring<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
photos taken on some afga film: it's one of my favorites to use. i leave in ten days for tennessee. </div>
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<br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-43278619263264314952015-03-26T15:49:00.000-07:002015-03-31T15:49:29.799-07:00nederland, coa collection of some of my analogue photos from my recent trip to nederland, co.<br />
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<br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-68412921156888652382015-03-24T08:13:00.001-07:002015-10-14T18:15:13.926-07:00on the verge I have been on the verge for a few years now. How one comes about being on the verge, I don’t know. The verge of everything? Sounds too poetic. Ambiguous. The verge of nothing? Too dismal. You can’t understand it in that sense. Simply, on the verge. We never achieve anything, at least within ourselves. Within that daiquiri of ice that brooms are thoughts, within that tough brazened hull of our forehead that means to venture quite regardless. The limited, limited few. Without insatiable people, the rest of the world couldn’t be satiated. They recklessly strive for things that they will never reach; they are, in fact, on the verge. You cannot leave the verge once you are part of it. You can buy a home in Montana and marry a woman named Rebecca from Missoula, but someday, a star will tread across the blue velvet curtains of earth and remind you that you have a calling. Whether it be to man a spacecraft to space, or to create some novel painted greatness. We have an affinity to the verge itself, not to the task at hand. We are like mindless spies who only require our next target. We are the engines for anything, and it’s all quite spontaneous and unruly. Our boat-like souls tip and splash. We don’t know how to spend our lives in a boat, no matter how perilous the outcome may be. We were dragged by our pale ankles in the dawn of some unimportant night into boats that we would be destined to abandon. The verge is a short lived thing, but it’s an inescapable enigma. We are as destined to die on the verge, as most are to die with far less purpose a couple decades later.<br />
Never coach us from the depths of our oblivion. Never shout our purpose lost; for it will never be. Never proffer our work to be unmanned, unsolved, or unfathomed. We are the ripples of night; the windswept skin of people jumping from planes; the red stars that burst too quickly; we are illuminated, bathe in the light, blacken our white! We are bound to serve an arguable “something.”
I have been on the verge for a few years now. How one comes about being on the verge, I don’t know.<br />
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<br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-63846356908577538112015-03-24T08:07:00.001-07:002015-03-24T08:10:23.092-07:00a foggy uproar<div class="CuerpoA">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">My French roommate and I embarked south on a Sunday
afternoon to Monte Gorbea, just outside of Vittoria, Spain. Monte Gorbea is the
highest elevation (1400 m) in our immediate area. After Monte Pagasarri and the
Pyrenees, I expected this hike to be fairly easily. Another hiking friend from
my university had told me that it was an easy hike, but that the last kilometer
to the top was pretty steep. We joked about how crazy the Spanish drivers were,
as were leaving our apartment. That back home (for both of us) people drove a
lot better. However, within the first ten minutes of our drive out of Bilbao</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;"> — </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">I got to see just how ironic that
conversation was.</span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ve never seen someone so mad in my life. Not at me,
not at the government, and most definitely not at a minor delay in traffic. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">He cursed endlessly in french out
the window, and I spent a good while just thinking </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">“</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Is he going
to physically attack the driver in front of us?</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">”</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">He kept the car within inches of any vehicle determined
to delay our hiking endeavor. I decided that it must have been a cultural
difference between us. In places like Chicago, everyone is an aggressive
driver; nobody stands out as an ostentatious lunatic. But here we are at a
standstill in Indauxtu, and he</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s the only
screaming frenchman in the bunch. What a sight it must have been to see this
quiet American reading a book next to this pugnacious frenchman. Out of fear of
getting punched in the face, I kept quiet and repeated </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">“</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">est</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">á</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">bien, est</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">á</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">bien</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">”</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">whenever my reassurance seemed necessary.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">It wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t until we were driving at 80km/hour, swerving through
the monte out of Bilbao that I felt I should say something. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">His GPS kept pointing us in the
wrong direction, and it was making him crazier every second. I took over the
driving instructions as if I knew exactly where we were, which wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t true. He trusted me long enough to not kill me, or
the perfectly happy drivers around us. We left Bilbao in the direction of
Vittoria, and I just couldn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t have
predicted a stranger or riskier start to a fairly short trip. We drove through
a small down just thirty minutes later, and we followed the signs that pointed
us towards Monte Gorbea. We parked, grabbed our bags, and headed towards the
trail.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">I don</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t think there is a more efficient set of hikers than
two young men. We asked each other constantly, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">“</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Do you need a break?</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">”</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">When really we were asking </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">“</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Am I better
than you?</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">”</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">That prideful bit of banter in a
couple of semi-experienced hikers is always somewhat of a dangerous thing. We
aimed to hike to the top within two hours; and with our passive competition
between us, we did just that. We passed horses and cows, but the higher you
hike in the Basque country, the more likely you are to find a herd of sheep.
They are the symbol of the region, and a symbol of the altitude. We hiked past
a herd of sheep after hiking for an hour or so.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">The hike is shaped in a way that
makes it impossible to really know where the top is exactly. There were many
moments where I felt like I knew where the peak was, but it always ended up
being just a small step in the ladder. The competition between us died out as
the mountain was obviously beginning to affect both of us. We took short breaks
to drink water and look down below, but nothing more than thirty seconds at a
time. We took pleasure in the brief plateaus and cursed the moments where we
realized there was far more ahead of us. Eventually we came across a higher
peak where fog rolled over the mountain. For a second I thought that we had
finally made it to the last kilometer, but after all of the disappointing
realizations now below us, I had my doubts.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Following the markers across the otherwise pathless
incline, we weaved through the silky, wet terrain. The fog hugged us tight, and
there was nowhere below us to look anymore. It was a real peaceful thing that
moment, to be cut off from all sorts of things. We pointed to a stone marker
ahead of us. And with the waning solace of daylight, we promised to head back
after reaching it. Luckily for us, the cross signifying the top of Monte Gorbea
was visible from our final marker. With delight and awe, we hiked with a
newfound motivation in our step to reach the top. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Neither one of us wanted to hike
back without reaching the top, but I knew that my roommate was scared of losing
daylight. While he was crazy when it came to driving, I was just as maniacal
about downhill hiking in the pitch dark: something that probably will never
phase me as much as it should. I sauntered up the last 100 meters, while my roommate
tried to herd me like a lost sheep to the overlooking cross. Now that we were
reaching the top, he was finally starting to realize that only half of the hike
was over</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;"> — </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">and that a good portion of what remained would be in
the dark.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">I handed him
my hiking headlamp, which I brought for him to use in case it got dark quickly.
He turned the light on immediately, even though it wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t necessary. It was at this point that he decided to
tell me that his dad competes professionally in running down mountains like the
one we were on. This was only my third time ever hiking, but I didn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t want to look inexperienced, so I sprinted after him
over the black, tumbling rocks. We weaved; we jumped; and we flew, to each
passing plateau until the light of the world was no longer with us. Our pace
slowed and we hiked closer together, but within a few minutes of darkness the
headlamp</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s battery died. I could</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ve cared less. I was excited to open my pupils to the
wild, rocky madness in front of us. We spent a good five minutes trying to get
the light to come back on, until I offered my iPhone as a flashlight. He seemed
content with the idea, and we hiked cautiously towards the tree-line.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">We warned each other when we found
unstable patches of rocks and paid little attention to anything that existed
outside of the 10 foot radius of the pale iPhone light. The path evened out and
we eventually were able to hike normally again. At one point my roommate
stopped in his tracks and whispered to me anxiously, to listen to a sound coming
from my right. I heard nothing out of the normal, really. All I knew was that
whatever the sound was, it was scaring the shit out of my roommate. What could
it be? The famous serial-killer of the Basque country? Was it a legendary
french hiking myth? There are no bears in this region, or mountain lions, or
anything ferocious for that matter. He tried to explain it to me in hushed and
frightened Spanish, but I was failing to understand the imminent danger. He
switched to english for the brief warning of, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">“</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">It sound of like wild hog, boar,
and if you hear it, you climb to the tree immediately.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">That made a whole lot more sense to
me. I was still incredulous to the idea that some husky 80 pound beast was
about to charge us. I wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t risking it,
though. I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ve never claimed to be a hog expert
or anything. I picked up a couple of rocks from the path and held them in both
of my hands. I felt like it was probably just the fear of hiking in the dark.
It</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s not that I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">m more courageous; I just sort of tune out the situation
and go to a happy place. And while we</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">re hiking through a dark forest, I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">m just thinking about how badly I need to do laundry.
Laundry isn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t scary. It</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s warm and smells nice.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Interestingly enough, the only
thing I was afraid would happen, happened in the worst way possible. A horse
was blocking the majority of the path ahead of us, and the only part of the
path remaining was the five feet at the tail end of the horse. Which if you
know anything about horses, that</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s the most
dangerous place to stand. At that moment, I was content with hopping barb wire
fences and getting my arms all cut up, rather than walking by the tail end of a
horse in the middle of the night. My roommate assured me that it would be fine,
and for some reason I listened. We walked past the horse without any problems,
and walked back to his car for the ride home. I happily ate my ham sandwich and
drank a bottle of water as I watched the headlights flicker through a small
Spanish town. The highway unraveled in front of me, and another mountain in the
Basque country was below my feet. While I only stood on the foggy, uproar of
beauty for a short while</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;"> — </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">a thing that profound stays with you. Even when you
drive into the city lights. Even when you pay attention to things that exist
beyond the tumbling rocks in front of you: where the sound of your deliberate
footsteps can</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t be discerned from the roar of
life.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Poromisin">
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<div class="Poromisin">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">So be it, I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ll hear the sound forever.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="Poromisin">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><br /></span></div>Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-39607115923698700132015-03-24T08:02:00.003-07:002015-03-24T08:10:15.042-07:00primesautière<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">I was sitting at home reading Tolstoy when my roommate came
in and asked me if I wanted to go and hike Monte Txindoki. 15 minutes later I
was in a car traveling out of the city, not really sure whether I was going to
be in France or Spain by night fall. I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">ve
learned to stop asking; I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">ve learned to stop caring so much;
but most importantly, I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">ve learned how to move</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">how to go</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">how to travel</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; font-size: 12pt;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">and how to do it all so relentlessly.</span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">It was 11 degrees centigrade with down pouring rain. I wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t sure
why my roommate chose the gloomiest day of the week to go hiking, but that
challenge was all the more attractive to me. After every hike, I buy a
coke-a-cola and drink it while taking a hot shower. The refreshing rush of that
sweet, cold sugar, the raucous sound of the shower tuning out the ongoing
world, and the simple, exhausted thought of </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">“</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">I did it.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">”</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">The whole drive to Monte Txinkoki, I knew that a cold
coke-a-cola and a hot shower were waiting for me at home. On the drive we
listened to the radio, the rain, and the familiar french voice spouting from
the GPS, until we arrived outside of a quaint hotel & caf</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">é</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">in Zaldibia. I wrapped my camera as best as I could in one
of my spare shirts before stuffing it deep into my bag.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">We walked along the road till we reached the arrow pointing
us towards Txindoki. The rain was endless as we hiked out of Zaldibia, but we
were still warm</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">we still had that remaining comfort. My roommate had told
me during the drive that this wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t quite as steep or challenging as
our last hike to Monte Gorbea, but as we climbed higher towards the clouds and
our clothes became more and more soaked with rain</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">we both knew that this hike was going
to be much harder.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Within 30 minutes, we had both fallen a few times. The mud
and the slippery rocks were taking their toll, even with a slower pace. It was
agitating, and little was said between us except a few french and spanish
expletives. The greasy and jagged path dissolved below us into verdant, lush
grass. Rain had covered my glasses</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="FR" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">lenses, and my jeans were completely drenched. I took a
moment to wipe my glasses, and to stare at the blurry giant before me: the only
way I could really tolerate the entirety of it.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">The wind and the rain had picked up tremendously. We stuck
to the fence posts to keep our footing, but the true climb was undeniably soon.
We didn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t dare look beyond the few feet in front of us, where the
rocks, puddles, and mud waited for us to make a faulty step. We reached a
turning point in the fence-line, where a boulder reached out over the cliff
into the clouded unfathomable. I was just hoping that my camera wouldn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t get
soaked, even after wrapping it in my extra clothes.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">And I think that moment, at the turning in the fence-line,
is one of the best photos I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ll never be able to take: where the
world is expressed too fully to be expressed any further. The rain and clouds
flew around me so quickly, that even I wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t
capable of understanding what earth pressured splendor had surrounded me. I dug
my fingers into the snowy but green soil in front of me, knowing that with each
minute, I was becoming more of the earth than myself: that my jeans had become
the rain, that my face had become the mud, and that my fingers had become the
very veins that supported the tree of myself, and whatever the wind might soon
make of me.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">While love claims to be so strong
that it can merge our souls, I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">d like to think that nature is so
strong that it can empty them: not with death or insignificance, but to fill us
completely again with some further grasp at the earth and its personage. In
that moment, I was little more than the earth and a clinging backpack.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">We never did reach the top; we knew it wasn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t
within us, or anyone, that day. We just sat in our flooded awe for a bit, and retreated
helplessly along the fence-line. I think that</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s one
assurance in life that I can always hold onto, the moments where I</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ve
stood at the arresting limits of a single day. And I couldn</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">t help
but wonder what Levin would</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ve thought, or Amory, if they had
stood there like I did. An intelligent man has little to say in a beautiful
place, but has an infinite beauty to say everything about it: I hope that maybe
that</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s how I was for a few hours, and maybe with the progress of
myself and each experience</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">I might widen it, openly.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">If the world has taught me anything,
it</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s that nothing can be kept, but that everything can be
felt; I hope I feel everything someday.</span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Cuerpo">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-53525146816623241022015-02-07T15:44:00.000-08:002015-03-31T15:45:03.614-07:00visiting kansas city <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
this weekend i visited my friends marc and israel. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJw_o1fmbJFpQUYWGcaETBgZDn4YZ_h9CqDUyg1OgepVxaYZpPY95ex4JjM92cA9UCPQ3BBURSnbNn4uG0lojyj-r30nrIPwvrNvrveKM-1cyG2e6aTwQ0Kw4mP6ofqsur4S2s8zjPZfXQ/s1600/103890779_18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJw_o1fmbJFpQUYWGcaETBgZDn4YZ_h9CqDUyg1OgepVxaYZpPY95ex4JjM92cA9UCPQ3BBURSnbNn4uG0lojyj-r30nrIPwvrNvrveKM-1cyG2e6aTwQ0Kw4mP6ofqsur4S2s8zjPZfXQ/s1600/103890779_18.jpg" height= "525"/></a></div>
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<br /><br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-32089460316721895952015-02-03T15:37:00.000-08:002015-03-31T15:41:58.645-07:00on a walk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
ben and I went on a nice walk in a nearby park this weekend. </div>
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<br />Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3342888897270369231.post-70162708725811793822014-10-13T02:19:00.000-07:002015-03-24T14:07:52.212-07:00twenty four hours<div class="p1">
I decided a week ago, after staring at the border between France and Spain, that I was going to hike over the Pyrenees from Saint Jean Pied de Port, France to Uterga, Spain. I was planning for the distance to be 100km and to take the lower route of the Camino Francés that people traverse in bad weather. I had only hiked once before to Mt. Pagasarri near Bilbao (30km hike). I was ignorant when I hiked Mt. Pagasarri. I embarked on the journey at 3pm with two granola bars and absolutely no water.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> There were several points during that hike where pure luck kept me going. If I had taken a different fork in the road of the “Camino Viejo,” maybe I wouldn’t have been able to find water. I also started the 8 hour hike late in the afternoon, meaning that a good 2 hours of my hike were completely in the dark. I used the remaining battery life on my iPhone to get me to a suburb farther outside of the city than I was expecting. I learned that while I have anxiety ordering food in a restaurant in Spain, I have no anxiety when it comes to being lost and hiking in the dark. I was able to act quicker and not panic about every little noise in the bustling trees around me. If I wanted to hike the 100km nonstop, I would have to be more prepared. </div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I went to a hiking store in Bilbao on a few different occasions and bought a headlamp, a poncho, protein and energy bars, two pairs of wool socks, and a highly recommended pair of hiking boots. I bought my bus ticket to and from Pamplona and a one-way ticket to Saint Jean. I sat nervously in Bilbao waiting for the moment when I could finally start the hike. I’m ignorantly fearless most of the time, but this hike was something that even <i>I thought </i>seemed like a bit of a stretch.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span></span>It was hard to look out the bus window as I journeyed to Saint Jean, knowing that within 12 hours I would be walking the entire distance on foot. We weaved through the mountains for almost 2 hours. The bus dropped us “peregrinos” off on the side of a main road. I decided to follow everyone else, hoping that I would find my hostel before everyone else found their own. Mine actually ended up being the first hostel on the road that we walked down.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> The hostel in Saint Jean was a three story house with beautiful, wooden floors. Each floor had its own cozy couch and various paintings on the walls. I walked up the stairs to see an older french couple watching the news in their living room. I stood there in shock for a second, feeling like I had just broken into someone’s house. The woman came over in her dark, purple glasses and assured me that I was welcome. I bought the camino passport from her at their check-in counter before retreating to my 4-person room on the top floor.</div>
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I overheard a Fleet Foxes’ song coming from the room from across the hall. “Is that Fleet Foxes?!” I blurted out. A girl with short, curly brown hair stepped into the hall and introduced herself to me. She and her 2 sisters were from Australia and had been traveling for several months. They asked if I could help them adjust one of their backpacks, and I quickly told them how inexperienced I was. After we all settled down in our rooms, the 3 Australian girls and I went to a nearby bar and had a drink.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> It was the perfect mixture of French and Spanish. I was able to order a Basque drink– in Spanish– in a French bar. We sat there talking about travel more than anything. The Camino rarely came up. The three of them had been couch-surfing and doing “work-away” across Europe. They traveled much cheaper than me; it was quite impressive. They told me about how they moved around a lot, so they didn’t really own much. Something that we all agreed was for the better. They told me about their genius, sound engineer friend who created some of the coolest things. He works full-time in pest control, and I thought that it was kind of a shame. I joked that we should take all of our remaining money and invest in his genius.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> When we got back to the hostel, the French woman kindly gave me a map for the first 27km to Roncesvalles. She pointed out a danger area around the 20km mark, some refuge huts that were along the camino, and she also recommended that instead of taking the lower route like I had planned, to take the route to the top. It was a tough decision, but I decided to change my plans accordingly. Instead of hiking to Uterga (just outside of Pamplona), I would hike to the top of the Pyrenees on the camino and continue until I reached Pamplona.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> The next morning, we all sat downstairs in the kitchen eating breakfast: 3 older French gentlemen, the 3 Australian girls, 2 spaniards from the south, the owner in her dark, purple glasses, and me. I tried some of the vegetable paste that the Australians offered me; it was salty and gross, but it was so random to get to try something that was brought from Australia. I got my socks wet sitting outside with everyone on the patio. I drank bitter coffee and listened to everyone else talk. I felt right at home with the wood floors and french commotion. My alarm on my phone started going off, so I headed back up to the room and put my stuff together.</div>
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I started off by going 5 blocks in the wrong direction. The Australians followed me, and eventually I had to admit to everyone that I thought we needed to turn around. We turned around and I picked up my pace, waving goodbye to the Australians behind me. </div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I caught up with a Canadian guy, who looked only slightly older than me. We got to a crossroad, and after figuring out that we spoke the same language, started talking together as we hiked out of Saint Jean. I was quite lucky to have met him. We both had similar camera lenses, similar travel outlooks, and both of us had up and decided to do this hike a week ago. He was an experienced hiker who had finished a 900km hike in Canada recently. He told me travel stories that I couldn’t even believe. Anything from biking down the most dangerous mountain in Bolivia, to driving across the Chilean border in a Jeep Wrangler with a soldier holding a machine gun. I was incredulous when he told his stories, but deeply enthralled with his endless pursuit of the world. The fact that we crossed paths told me that I was heading in the right direction.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> The humidity and fog was so bad that I had to take off my glasses at times to wipe them off. The path to Leopolder, the highest point, zig-zagged through some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen. We wore ponchos and danced with the green giants. Our minds empty, eyes full, with one foot in front of the other–we hiked into the confusingly beautiful. We cleared Leopolder in 5.5 hours and descended into Spain shortly after.</div>
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WE WORE PONCHOS AND DANCED WITH THE GREEN GIANTS. OUR MINDS EMPTY, EYES FULL, WITH ONE FOOT IN FRONT OF THE OTHER– WE HIKED INTO THE CONFUSINGLY BEAUTIFUL.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I hiked with the Canadian for 27km until we reached Roncesvalles, where he stopped for the day. He was the only person who was hiking as fast as me, and so with Roncesvalles, I hiked west to Pamplona alone. I tried to get some food before leaving the town, but the bars only offered a 10 euro ticket that gave entry to a “peregrino” menu starting at 5pm. In the next town over the supermarket was closed. I walked into a fine-dining restaurant asking if I could order something “para llevar.” The 15 year old in front of the bar went to ask his father, who politely told me there was a cheaper option for me up the street.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I wouldn’t find a place to buy food for another 15km. I walked into a bar in Viscarret, explaining that I just hiked from Saint Jean. “No es posible,” he told me without hesitation. I pulled out my camino passport and asked for him to give me a stamp for Viscarret. He gladly complied saying that the distance was too much for a single day. I told him my plans to hike straight through to Pamplona. He gave me two free sandwiches and offered me a cigar. I was so revved up by the whole thing, that I sat down and smoked half the cigar before I realized how terrible of an idea it was. I explained why I shouldn’t smoke a whole cigar as politely as I could in spanish, trying not to offend his generosity. He wanted me to stay longer and rest, but I insisted that too much rest would keep me from hiking through.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I spent two minutes on the WiFi letting everyone know that I was safe before I ventured into the hardest 30km of my life. The next 10km to Zubiri consisted of small hills going through a forest along the main highway. It was mundane and quiet. I think that stopping in Viscarret had slowed my momentum a little. I picked up my pace as night began to fall. I knew that I wanted to cover as much ground before then. I had been inspired from my hike to Mt. Pagasarri to attempt a portion of this hike at night. It was a real challenge to voluntarily hike through Spain with only a flashlight attached to my head.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I got into Zubiri a little after 9pm, where the kindness of the people once again kept me motivated. I was offered a free shower and leftovers in their community fridge. I got the stamp on my passport and insisted once again that I needed to continue. I had read online about hiking the camino at night. I knew that a few people had attempted it at a later part of the hike that followed closer to the highway. The rain had began pouring down heavily as I walked into the desolated streets of Zubiri at around 10:30pm.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> It took me a long time with my headlamp to distinguish that I needed to actually retrace my steps across the bridge entering the town in order to continue the camino. It was quite discouraging. I knew that the 22.8km to Pamplona was going to be the hardest portion of the hike. My friend Ben had warned me that I needed to pay close attention to my surroundings. Sleep and food deprivation, a limited headlamp view, and faulty, rocky paths made my night almost insurmountably challenging.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span></span>This portion of the hike is up or downhill for the most part, but there was no substantial elevation change. I jumped from one side of the path to the other in the pouring rain. I looked down to keep the light focused on the few meters in front of me. I made sure to stop every few seconds to get a grasp for my surroundings. It seemed pointless at times, but I knew that a wrong turn in the path at night would get me lost. It was the most vulnerable I have ever felt in my life.</div>
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Sometimes I would see something in my peripherals. I would swing my head quickly to the side to see that it was only a tree stump or a fence post. I had been doing fine so far, hiking at a dismal but safe pace in the dark. The thought of something jumping into the circle of light in front of me started to bother me. Shortly after, my head swung side to side nervously trying to keep everything illuminated. I knew that the noises around me were not helping. I plugged in my headphones and tried to listen to my workout playlist. It was helpful to tune out the noise and just focus on one rock at a time.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> The rain and wind had picked up quite a bit. A louder noise came from my left. I stopped in my tracks reaching up through the hood of my poncho trying to remove my headphones. The hood of my poncho was tight around my head, considering I was wearing two jackets underneath. I panicked and shouted as loudly as I could in the direction of the noise. I shined my headlight in the direction of the sound for a good minute before bending down to pick up a few rocks. I was smart enough to not run, but irrationally scared enough to leave the path to face my offender. I never found out what the sound was exactly. It wasn’t a fallen tree branch or fence post. I scoured the surrounding area for something or someone to make sense of it all.</div>
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I was losing my grip and I knew it. I had already trusted the nature of Spain this far, and there wasn’t any other option but to continue on. </div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I got to Larrasoaña after calmly walking for a little while longer in the dark. I spent a while on the outskirts of Larrasoaña on my iPhone reading underneath the tent of my poncho. I calmed down quite a bit and continued to hike. I stopped later on once I had found a good resting spot and positioned myself against a tree. I retreated into the safety of my poncho and read until I could sleep for a little while. I wasn’t concerned with setting an alarm out here. I woke up a few hours later and ate some nuts and raisins. I had almost forgotten about my sandwiches, but I couldn’t get myself to eat but a few bites. </div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I walked through Villava, thinking I was finally in Pamplona. I walked until I found a sign saying “welcome to Pamplona/Iruña,” and turned right back around. I walked back out of Pamplona and Villava into a forest-like part of the path a few kilometers out. I had finally hiked to Pamplona, but I knew I couldn’t stay. My bank card hadn’t been working at any of the ATM’s (I can’t use ServiRed). I also was aware that no hostel or hotel would accept a “peregrino” at 6am, yet alone someone who didn’t have any money left. It was miserable to leave Pamplona, but I knew I was better off sleeping somewhere removed. I fell asleep quickly after resting my head on the more comfortable part of my backpack. I left my fear in Larrasoaña; the exhaustion was too much to fight at this point.</div>
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I woke up in the warm afternoon and walked back into Pamplona. My feet were stinging in agony while the rest of my body seemed to be doing okay. My clothes were wet and stuck close to my skin as I walked into the noisy sunlight. It took almost two hours for me to walk into Pamplona again. I stopped at every park bench that I found. I got the genius idea of using my extra socks as inserts in my hiking boots to try and alleviate the pain. While pulling my extra socks out, I found 5 euros in coins at the bottom of my front pocket. Food! Pop! Whatever!</div>
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The only map that I had for my hike was the first 27km out of Saint Jean. I had no idea how to find the bus station again. When I had been waiting for my bus to take me to Saint Jean, I had walked around in a large park behind the station. I walked around the outskirts of a few parks unsuccessfully. I even asked a few people on the streets if they knew where the bus station was. Everyone pointed me towards ambiguous places that led to nowhere.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I walked through a third park agitated. Nothing there seemed to look like the park I had seen a few days ago. I still had over 4 hours to find the bus station, but I was getting to the point where I needed to rest my feet every few minutes. I went to sit on a bench when I noticed that “J + P” was spray painted across it. It all came back to be in an instant. I had seen this bench on Friday! I peered out at the other end of the park to see the entrance to the bus station. I was so ecstatic that I took out my camera and took a picture of the otherwise normal park bench. I walked with a smile on my face towards the station.</div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"></span></span> I washed my face in the bus station bathroom and rolled deodorant all over my neck to try and mask my terrible smell. After an hour in a proper chair with WiFi, I walked around the immediate area outside of the bus station and found an ATM that I could actually use. I withdrew 20 whole euros and went back to the bus station café and ordered a gigantic, hot pizza. Thirty minutes later I was on a bus home to Bilbao.</div>
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And that’s how I hiked the 75km from Saint Jean, France to Pamplona, Spain overnight.<br />
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Ryan Brockhoffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14557674103638616454noreply@blogger.com0